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rose to create shorter bodices that were worn with contrasting stomachers.
The period also witnessed the change from to breeches for men.
Excessive ornamentation was discarded in favor of simpler broad and linen collars.
7. Прочитайте и переведите текст письменно.
Fashion houses are the companies behind the bigger name designers. Theyre considered houses because the company bears the designers name, even after the designer has retired and someone else has taken over designing the label. The fashion houses influence trends and, consequently, sales through the use of advertising. If you look through a fashion magazine, you see that most of the pages are ads. These ads, which are just as visually interesting and informative as the editorial pages, can have quite an impact. For example, department stores didnt want to stock designer jeans back in the 1980s, but the ads placed by the jeans companies created the public demand, and it wasnt long before those jeans were in every store.
8. Переведите следующий текст.
Анализ целостности ансамбля проводится на примере костюма (представленного на рис. слева).
В этой модели нельзя убрать отделку в плечевой части из цветного крепдешина бежевого цвета, так как сразу нарушится целостность композиции.
Если убрать один из главных элементов в костюме, а именно цветную драпировку, то исчезнет один из сильных контрастов, который проявляется в сочетаниях основного и отделочного материалов, их цветовой гамме и фактуре поверхностей. При всем этом, костюм становится неполным и скучным.
Однако, умелое использование материалов, декоративных элементов в головном уборе позволяет добиваться выразительности представленного костюма и его эстетической ценности. При изъятии из ансамбля шляпы и легко драпирующегося отделочного материала изменится форма модели (расширенная в плечевой части и зауженная в линии талии).
Нарушается связь форм, если убрать из костюма головной убор и дамскую сумочку.
На основе анализа внешней формы костюма можно заключить, что представленная композиция является законченной и достаточно целостной, так как соблюдаются меры контраста.
9. Прочитайте и переведите цитату. Выучите высказывание наизусть.
"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening."
10. Перескажите текст упражнения 4, используя фразы в приложении.
Unit 3
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
1. Прочитайте следующие слова вслух и переведите их письменно:
robe, pleats, lavish, conical, panniers, sleeves, petticoat, bodice, redingote, silhouette, neoclassical, acumen, austerity, self-promotion, transnational, dressmaking, democracy, dissemination, bell-shaped, trumpet-shaped, hoops, empire, bust, regency, equal, inspiration, ensemble.
2. Прочитайте и переведите следующие глаголы:
to popularize, to politicize, to encase, to invert, to exaggerate, to dethrone, to unconfined, to categorize.
3. Подберите эквивалентный перевод словосочетаний из колонки A в колонке В.
4. Прочитайте и переведите текст.
The eighteenth century saw fashion celebrated as culture. One popular garment was contouche, a loose robe with large back pleats so often painted by Antoine Watteau that they came to be called Watteau pleats. Fashion icon of the day Madame de Pompadour popularized the lavish rococo style. At this point, by mid-century, the womens torso was encased in an inverted conical corset with sleeves becoming bell- or trumpet-shaped, and the full-skirted silhouette widened further. Hoop skirts worn in the 1730s and 1740s give way to panniers, or side hoops. By 1790, although skirts remained fill, the exaggerated form had disappeared, and a fashion developed for the pouter-pigeon front, with many layers of fabric pinned to a bodice.
Riding habits and mens tailoring found their way into womens fashion in the second half of the century by way of the popular German traveling suit called a Brunswick gown, a two-piece ensemble that featured a hooded jacket with split sleeves and a matching petticoat; the caraco, a jacket-like bodice worn over a petticoat an based on the dress of servants and country women; and the joseph, a coat dress styled after the riding coat (adopted by the French as a redingote). After the French and American Revolutions fashion became politicized and austerity came to equal democracy. The end of the century gave regency way to an unconfined long silhouette categorized as directoire, empire or regency, with a high waistline located under the bust. Deriving its inspiration from the Greeks and Romans, this neoclassical style took Europe into the early 1800s.
One figure of special note in the eighteenth century was the dressmaker and stylist Rose Bertin. Bertin, who would later became known as the Ministre de la Mode, was instrumental in generating a passion for the latest fashions thanks to her work for the French queen Marie Antoinette, whom she dressed from 1770 until she was dethroned in 1792. Through her clever, self-promotion, business acumen, and transnational reach, Bertin helped to turn dressmaking toward a modern model of the fashion business. Contributing, too, to the wide dissemination of fashion trends by the end of the century was the rise in popularity of fashion plates and journals.